Transmission Install

Time to install the clutch/flywheel assembly but first I need to install the pilot bearing. Since this engine was originally used with an automatic transmission, there was no pilot bearing present which made things a little easier.


All that needed to be done was insert the new bearing into the crankshaft. I made sure I had the right part for my app since there two styles used by GM. I'm using a T56 from a 02 Camaro so that used the smaller of the two bearings available from GM.


After a few taps from a hammer and a piece of wood, bearing installed.


I decided to use the LS7 clutch/flywheel setup from GM. If it can handle the 505hp of a Z06 Vette, I figured it should be strong enough for my set up.



Next up was mounting the transmission to the engine. Sounds easy but we fought with this for a couple of hours. Problem we had was lining everything up perfectly, splines on the trans and clutch, engine in line with trans, and pilot bearing inline with input shaft. When I first torqued the clutch assembly, the clutch must have moved slightly offline, even with the alignment tool. I disassembled the clutch from the engine and re-installed it being careful of the clutch disc's placement. That did it and the transmission went on.


We then did a trial fit of the engine/transmission in the car. We lifted up the front of the car and rolled the engine in underneath. Worked like a charm!


It fits!


Next up: Wire up the engine harness, mount accessories, and install exhaust headers.

Odds & Ends

Some minor things done....

Wrapped brake lines and fuel lines in some heat protection sleeves.



Made a new ignition coil bracket for the passenger side. The stock mounting bracket for the truck engine had the coils sitting too high and caused interference with the fuel rail inlet (circled below). So I cut a new bracket out of aluminum and painted it. It looks like it will work ok.


Next we got the engine off of the stand and onto the V8R subframe and removed the front bumper cover off of the car. The idea here is to roll the engine/transmission underneath while lifting up the front of the car. At least thats the idea.

Transmission Oops

So it is time to mate up the 6 speed transmission to the engine but before that I wanted to clean it up a bit an install a new slave cylinder.


Cleaned up well.


So when I removed the old slave cylinder, seen above, and tried to install the new one, the upper bolt hole strips threads the instant I put pressure on it. Crap. Considering how little pressure I used, I think the threads were already damaged and I just finished it off.



You can see the damage in the two pics above.

So now what? Now I need to repair that threaded hole. I used a Helicoil thread repair kit. It uses coil inserts to replace the stripped threads.



First the hole to be repaired is drilled out:



Then the drilled hole is threaded with the supplied tap from the kit:



Using the tool that comes with the repair kit, a coil insert is then installed. In theory the repaired hole is now stronger than the soft threaded aluminum that it replaced.



New slave cylinder installed:



Next task, mate the transmission to the engine.

Engine update

It's been too long between updates. Doctor bills put the project on hold for awhile this summer but hopefully we are back on track.

I decided to do a camshaft swap on the engine before installing it. I figured now or never. The stock cam was swapped for a Thunder Racing TR224 cam. Specs of the cam are 224/224 duration, .563 lift and a 112 lsa. It should be good for about 30-40 hp increase with a little lope idle. Look up TR224 on YouTube for some examples.

Since I changed the camshaft, I also needed to change the pushrods and valve springs to a more stout set. Thanks to LS1howto.com for good directions on the install.

Some pictures of the swap:

Pretty clean for a used truck engine.


Installing the cam.
Note the two wood dowels in the block. These are for holding the lifters in place when removing and installing the cam.



Valve spring swap:


Got this valve spring compressor tool from a LS1Tech forum member for $33. Simple and it works. I used the "top dead center" method for keeping the valves from falling into the cylinder. You rotate the engine so the at any one time two pistons are at the top of the cylinder. The valve will only move slightly towards the piston when the spring is removed. You just need to do only two cylinders at a time and make sure that they are the correct two.

New springs installed:


Custom Oil Pan:
I also had to install a new oil pan to clear the Miata steering rack and crossmember. A F-body pan can be modified and used but I decided to use a custom pan from V8 Roadsters. It is designed for performance driving with full baffles to help prevent oil starvation under heavy cornering. It also uses a remotely mounted oil filter.

Baffles:


I had to cut the factory windage tray to clear the pan:


V8R pan installed:



Intake Manifold:
Since the tall truck manifold is, well, too tall, a car style intake manifold has to be installed. I went with an LS6 intake manifold along with a cable actuated throttle body to replace the truck setup. Plus it should flow a little more air, and work well with the new cam.

So close:


Next step is to order a clutch/flywheel kit and mate up the transmission. Then its time for a test fit. Soon....very soon...

Engine found!

So I finally found an engine. It is an all aluminum L33 5.3 liter, 310 hp from a 2005 Silverado with 32k miles. Bought at Jim's Auto Salvage in Sebring for $850, a bargain. The engine looks brand new. Being a truck engine I will have to make some changes to fit the Miata but they are minor. Changes include swapping the intake manifold for the lower profile LS6 car style, changing the water pump to a LS2 type along with the balancer, and swapping out the oil pan for a F-Body style for clearance. I may swap the camshaft for a Z06 cam to improve performance but still thinking about that one...depends on the budget.

Think it will fit?